Narrow rambling streets flanked by faded 18th century houses and balconies heavy with the weight of freshly washed linen and thirsty looking plants. Faded gothic splendour and surreal modernist buildings with twisted turrets and grand colourful roofs. Orange trees bursting with fruit (in January!). Disgruntled taxi drivers and atrocious Catalan cuisine.
But all of it so charming and utterly magical.